I recently attended the Boston Wine Expo where over 400 wine vendors showcased their prized potions to “swirl, sniff, taste and spit.” Unfortunately, I only stumbled across one vendor with a wine labeled as organic, and frankly it wasn’t worth the swirl or sniff. Don’t get me wrong, I thoroughly enjoyed sampling all the varieties, conventional or otherwise. But as a supporter of sustainable lifestyle practices, I have a hard time reconciling the fact that conventionally grown grapes are one of the most heavily contaminated crops ingested by humans. Not only do these chemicals end up depleting the soil, polluting the water, and affecting the people growing the grapes, but the chemical residues can end up in the wines we drink. Proponents of sustainably produced wines argue that organic and biodynamic viniculture methods are better for both the environment and for us. The French have been toasting Á Votre Santé (“to your health”) with wine for ages. And coincidentally they have also reportedly been producing some of the most consistently well-liked organic wines. So what do they know that we don’t?
Organic wine is made from grapes that are grown without the use of chemical herbicides, pesticides or fungicides. Simple enough. But the degree of organicity (yes, I just made that up) also depends on the amount of sulfites in the wine. Sulfites are typically added to grapes during the fermentation process as an antimicrobial agent (germ killing) and preservative. Some sulfites occur naturally as a byproduct of fermentation, so it’s literally impossible to find truly “sulfite-free” wine. If the label says “organic” then no additional sulfites were added to the naturally occurring ones. Which might sound like a good thing, but the sulfites help to preserve and protect the integrity of the wine. Since the naturally occurring ones are inactive, that 100% organic wine you are about to purchase is likely to have not aged well on the shelf. “Made with Organic Grapes” means that the grapes were grown organically but that the processors added sulfites. Now, I don’t know about you, but I like my wine to taste good. So as long as the grapes were grown without chemicals, I am willing to compromise on some added sulfites. And keep in mind also that white wines actually contain more added sulfites than red wines. The tannins in the grape skins (which give red wines their color) also help to preserve the wine which means that fewer sulfites need to be added to reds.
Taking organic viniculture to the next level, biodynamic wines are the next big wine trend according to Food and Wine Magazine. Started by Dr. Rudolf Steiner in 1924, biodynamic agriculture treats the farm, in this case the vineyard, as a living organism taking into account the climate, local wildlife and plant species, planetary systems, and lunar cycles to navigate the agricultural world. It even uses a series of special herbal preparations to prepare the soil for the upcoming harvest. Much like natural medicine, any disease is seen as a symptom instead of a problem and handled as such, without the use of chemicals. This method might sound a little hokey to some, but it’s actually how I imagine my great grandmother and her family farmed in the back woods of Maine over 100 years ago. Skeptics of the biodynamic method say there is no scientific data to back it up as a superior agricultural method. Well, duh! There is also no scientific data to back up conventional farming as superior, and no scientific data to indicate the chemical residues that end up in our conventionally produced wines don’t negatively impact our health. Someone get on that! What biodynamics does have going for it, however, is the test of time.
Using practices in line with nature- instead of against it- leaves a smaller carbon footprint and allows the grapes to develop a bouquet and flavor profile consistent with the location of the vineyard. The result is a product of supposed superior structure and depth. And since no chemicals are used on the grapes during the growing process, there are no chemical residues or toxins to be inadvertently ingested.
Many vineyards have converted, or are in the process of converting, to organic or biodynamic practices but are not certified due to all the red tape involved in the certification process. So check with your local wine retailer and do some research online. The Organic Wine Company (www.theorganicwinecompany.com) is an online store for purchasing organic wines. They say they will fully refund your money if you have any negative feedback about the wines you order. It’s also a good resource for finding varieties to have your local wine retailer carry for you. Fork and Bottle (www.forkandbottle.com) provides an extensive list of biodynamic vineyards and wines for you to peruse.
So let’s follow the example of our French neighbors and toast with a glass of earth and body friendly wine. Á Votre Santé!
Resources:
www.theorganicwinecompany.com
http://www.forkandbottle.com/ (biodynamic wine producers)
www.demeter.usa.com
